Nearing the end of the month of October the dry air is filled with smoke. People parade in their winter coats and scarves and the clicking of boots is heard echoing throughout the narrow streets. The lackadaisical stroll of summer and fall is pushed into a quickstep as people rush to escape the new wave of cold air.
Little wooden shelters pop up on city corners and plazas and a sweet smoke accompanies them. Just outside the little hut are two round metal "barrels" filled with burning wood. On top of the "barrels" are slow roasted chestnuts and sweet potatoes.
Panellets:
Two-bite "cookies" originally consisting of Sweet Potato, Almond Flour, Egg Yolks, and Sugar (although now there are many variations) Panellets were made as on offering to deceased ancestors. On The Day of the Dead, families would come together to remember and honor their ancestors and visit them in the cemetery, as it was believed that this was a day that the dead came to visit the living. They would leave offerings in the cemetery of either Sweet or White Wine, Panellets, Chestnuts, Almonds, Hazelnuts, Sweet Potatoes, and other seasonal foods.
Castanyes i Boniatos (Chestnuts and Sweet Potatoes):
*In the Middle Ages the bells of all the churches and convents would sound throughout Catalunya on the night before and day of All Saints (November 1st) to remind citizens that it was time to pray for the dead. The men ringing the bells would recuperate from their hard work by eating Chestnuts, abundant at this time of year, and drinking Sweet Wine to help against the cold in their moments of rest.
With time, close family members began to join the men in the towers to accompany them through the cold night. This gathering eventually turned the hard work into a celebration as they enjoyed each others' company along with Chestnuts and Sweet Wine. By the end of the 18th century, this tradition of eating Chestnuts had spread from the small villages to the larger towns and cities. Eventually this would turn into a national festivity.
Today, All Saints is celebrated by eating and drinking roasted Chestnuts, Sweet Potatoes, Panellets and Moscatel with close family, although it is no longer entirely celebrated as a religious ritual for the dead.
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